Island Life

5am: I wake to the eery sound of Muslim dawn prayers (Fahr) drifting across the terraced rice paddies below the bedroom window. It is still dark and so I snuggle deeper under the covers.

It is the coolest part of the day at 27 degrees, but the aircon quietly whirrs keeping the bedroom at a comfortable 22. The cat purrs and eases his way up towards our shoulders, nudging our faces before curling back into a ball. Eyes still closed I am no longer sleeping and so swing my legs to the floor and pad out to the rooftop to watch the sun as it rises over the horizon. 

One of my favourite parts of the day is the early morning when the beach clubs and hungover holiday makers sleep. The local workers set the beanbags and umbrellas on the beach and unload the daily produce deliveries to the cafe’s. The surfers venture down to Echo Beach to catch waves and the stray dogs and cats emerge from abandoned temples to roam the streets looking for food.

Back on the rooftop of the villa I roll out my mat to do some yoga. Afterwards, I strip down and jump in the pool. Sun getting higher in the sky it is already hot and sticky.

9am: “Selamat Pagi Iluh!!” I come downstairs and greet one of our house keepers as she lugs armfuls of fresh linen into the villa. 

“Pagi Miss!” She sings back. The other maid is in the driveway paying for our daily juice delivery. “Makasih (Thanks) Agung”, I say as I take the freshly squeezed watermelon juice into the kitchen.

Iluh now lays out the canang sari, a small tray made from banana leaves in front of the entrance to the villa and one in a miniature temple that sits in the garden by the pool. In the banana leaf trays lay fruit, flowers, insence and sweets. She lights the incense, and the sweet, musky scent drifts into the villa as I drink my juice. Iluh, a Hindu, lays these baskets out at our villa daily to keep the gods happy and the evil spirits away.

I pause.

Whether I believe in evil spirits or whether I believe the ritual will protect our villa, it is nice to take this moment to be mindful of the day and what lays ahead. During my pause I remind myself that I can do this anywhere. Whether living on island time in Bali where there are countless moments like this, or back home where there are much less, a pause to be mindful can go a 1000 miles.

I say a silent thank you for Iluh for my daily reminder.

A Humbling Experience

Another really humbling experience with the Balinese today.

Before we had even left my driveway, my Grab driver asked me if he could get my opinion.

“Sure”, I replied.

“Well my previous job asked me to come back after this job and take her on a long (ish) trip. It’s a good job - 100k but i forgot to get her number”.

“What if, after I drop you off, I go all the way back and she’s not there”

He had a huge dilemma as he told me that it could take him 3 hours to earn 100k ($10 nzd), so this was a lucrative job. But if he drove 10 minutes back and she wasn’t there he could have lost out on a smaller job, which he needed.

As i sat there, I grappled with the temptation to just give him the 100k but it’s not always appropriate to hand out notes like some saviour.

Instead i just listened to his never ending trail of thought all the way to the post office.

As we arrived it dawned on me that he needed to go back to my street to pick up the girl.

“Why don’t you wait for me and just take me back home.” I said. “I’ll tip you to wait and pay you to take me home and you won’t lose time or money going back.”

He looked at me with the most humble appreciation and said,

“As long as you’re not just doing that because you feel sorry for me.” (😭)

“No, i need to get home so it works perfectly”.

He got a good payment for the job because if i had logged a return trip in the Grab app he’d have been paid much less than if I just paid him double to take me home again.

“You will get good karma for this deed miss” he said. “I will give you a 5 star rating AND a comment on how good you are.”

He expressed his appreciation all the way home. As we pulled back up up to the villa, I knew that I had done nothing special and wished him good luck. “I hope you get the job”.

“Thank you …. Denise is it?”

“Ya, dan siapa nama?” (what is your name) - he smiled at my use of Indonesian.

“Vincentius”, he told me.

“Sampai jumpa Vincentius!”, I said

“Sampai jumpa lagi!”,, he sang as he zoomed away.

My trip to the post office and back cost me $4, but if left a huge mark on my heart.

Vincentius, I really hope you got your good job.

Our Experience in a Bali ICU

It was 2am and he woke with vomiting, fever and chills.

As he froze under a pile of blankets in the 27 degree early morning heat I could see things were getting worse. We had to take the long drive back to the hospital and we had to leave as soon as we could.

The taxi driver and I, not knowing each other’s language, tried to communicate in the pitch black. Using hand signals I was trying to convince him to drive down the long narrow driveway. I couldn’t tell him that the passenger could not walk, and I couldn’t explain that he would be able to turn the vehicle around easily at the end. The car finally arrived at the front door and we got in. Him very ill, me worried and weary.

To get sick in a developing country means nasty viruses like dengue can take you down and bacterial infections can take your life. I was right to be worried.  Fast forward a week, a midnight surgery & a few nights in the ICU; he is upright once more. Powerful IV antibiotics help his body win the fight. He had a bacterial infection in a stitched up cut on his leg and he’ll be okay.

My high had been adrenaline. My bed a wheelchair and my diet the only thing on offer in or near the hospital, sugary instant coffee and Pizza Hut. Back at home I had a patient who needed me often so I wasn’t going to leave the villa for long. That meant no yoga classes, no walks on the beach, no massage, no leisurely dining in organic cafes.

Crash & Recover

The tiredness and stress had manifested into unhealthy behaviours. I ordered in food and ate it right out of the box while standing in the kitchen. I neither tasted nor enjoyed. I craved sugar and sweets when I wasn’t really hungry. I drank coffee for energy not for pleasure. I woke from deep sleeps to calls of help. In the day & at long waits at the hospital, I worried.

As he healed, I felt ready to get my groove back and so my times of rest became mindful once more. I slowly savoured fresh fruits, veggies and good proteins on the patio beside the pool. I played my favourite music and put pen to paper with interesting activities for days to come.

Gratitude

After a period of dryness, when the rainy season kicks in, big rains can stir up dirt in the rivers & transport them to the ocean. Seasoned expats know to stay out of the water for at least 24 hours after this. The dirt can create a great risk of infection which can get into any cut or wound on the body. These infections can move at lightening speed and not seeing a doctor immediately can result in limb amputation or even death. He knew this, but was being hospitable when he went against his instinct and followed through on plans to foil with some travellers, even though a big storm had occurred just hours before.

If there were learned experiences from this, it was the importance of having travel insurance as well as staying out of the ocean after rain storms. Also, listen to your intuition.

Life has more flavour when it has its ups and downs, but this one we could have done without. It reminds us to be grateful and appreciate what we have. Gratitude of our health, our wealth, our people and our wellbeing. Gratitude of the times we feel ‘together’, patience for when we feel scattered and disorganised.

This was a reminder to me that the good times can turn into bad times at any time. We trip and we fall and we get up again. We are both on the road to recovery. I have a simple take on wellbeing, get sleep, don’t stress, and have some friends around. This is what I am doing.

The Simple Life

I steal a pre dawn amble to get the freshly squeezed juice for today.  A stray cat meows at me for food, I promise to feed her when I’m back. Iluh has laid out fruit in baskets on the ground in front of our villa and I step around them. The baskets are surrounded by frangipanis, marigolds & sweet smelling incense; an offering to the Gods so they will look favourably upon us.

The sun will rise soon revealing a beautifully hot day on the island. It will shine its light on recent adversity. After reflection, meditation, sleep and good food I’m more thankful & inspired than ever. For my health, my wealth, my people and my wellbeing. 

Denise

A Season in Bali

And the sun goes down on Bali for another season.

Bingin, Munduk, Lembongan, Ubud. Birthday parties & Bali dancers. Friends & family coming to stay. Working out with Kat & Val. Sunning on the daybed beneath a leafy tropical canopy.

Sunset drinks on the rooftop penthouse. Kittens & puppies. Hidden steps & holes, don’t sprain your ankle. Beach clubs, hangovers, delicious food. Fresh squeezed juices delivered to the door “Pagi Denise what can we get you today”. Made’s Banana Flour Bakery where everything is gluten free. Coming home to a freshly baked loaf of sourdough hanging from the storeroom door.

Dancing on tables at Mexicola (didn’t do it). $5 loungers on the beach with a book (definitely did). Lazy days & early nights. Netflix in the loft. Firing up the Webber. Hundreds of Gojek drivers “Miss Denise? Are you ready? Let’s go!!”

Maids singing Selamat Pagi!!!!!!!as they enter the villa. Joking around “Mr Mark, Denise go shopping te hehehehe!!! We go shopping too te heheh!”

Construction on steroids, everywhere you look. Peering through the banana leaves & discovering naked workers bathing in the stream at sunset.

Fireworks across the rice paddies, buying sarongs on the beach & ocean swims. Allergies & itching like mad. Iced coconut latte’s at Zin cafe.

Adorning the stairways & tables with marigolds. Moving a vase or pot here and there to create beauty everywhere I look. Visits from Yessie & Mocha, an entire Balinese family relaxing from time to time on our doorstep.

Gifts of mangos & papaya from Iluh’s family farm in Singaraja. So many mangos that I have to freeze them. Sharing an ice cold smoothie bowl in my togs on the terrace with Mark. Spoons vying for the last mouthful.

The Canteen breakfast club. “I’m just popping up to Tiga” for lunch.

Rescuing Alex, a monkey living in a tiny cage at the neighbours - a work still in progress.

Mark, I love life here & I love you. I never expected when i discovered Bali almost 15 years ago I would end up with it as my other home. Feeling very blessed.

The Balinese people have so much room in my heart. So too do my friends & family back home and I can’t wait to see you. Denise

Bali Roads, Poverty, & Yoga

I pressed my body into him and felt him lean back in response. “You okay back there honey?” he yelled.

“I’m terrified but yes I’m okay.” was my reply. We slowed and came to a stop at the lights, surrounded by scooters, fumes, noise and dirt. Our friend pulled up beside us and a cripple hobbled through the madness with his hands out. I reached into my crossbody bag, pulled out some crumpled notes and waved him over. He had stumps for feet and his legs were skinny knock-kneed trunks.  He needed both of his twisted hands to receive the money because his fingers did not work. I became aware that as I handed it over I avoided touching him and immediately felt guilty. We had a brief moment when his brown eyes connected with mine before he hobbled off through the traffic. Me, immediately forgotten by him. Him, part of a moment I will remember forever.

The lights turned green and the sea surged forward. We weaved through the cars and scooters and I checked behind to see if our friend was still with us. Fully aware that my safety was not only in M’s hands, but in the hands of fate, I distracted myself as I always do by scanning the signs written in Indonesian that we whizzed past. As I searched for words I understood, my Indonesian language would improve. I repeated out loud to myself, “Mie ayam”, chicken noodle. “Masuk dan keluar di sini”, enter and exit here.

We exited the highway and I looked up at a giant concrete wall topped with razor wire. Kerobokan Prison. I could feel behind those walls anguish, filth, pain and calls to lawyers from desperate foreigners hoping for release.

The roads began to turn & wind into more familiarity and we come to a slower pace.  I recognised the trendy cafe’s of home turf which overlook lush green rice fields. Beefed up tattooed expats cruise around on their scooters and I relax. Stories of people not only getting seriously injured but dying on these roads are heard often and I’m relieved to be almost home. As we turn onto our street I see a dog trotting down the road covered in blood. He’ll be fine but my heart broke a little, as it always does.

Finally we pull into the garage of our villa and the staff help us with our bags. I am absolutely exhausted. My face & eyes are red from the dirt and dust from the traffic. My feet hurt from walking and the fear from being on the crazy ride on the highway lingers. The memory of the cripple & the dog remind me not only of how blessed we are but of the poverty that hides behind the glitz and glamour.

I am craving yoga but haven’t had time. I’m needing time (to myself), but it’s been fleeting. The space that yoga and meditation gives me is a reset that I greatly need. I’ll get it soon. I’m realising today more than ever, how much I need to pause and withdraw.

Here in Bali we experience polarities. Leaving the sanctuary of the villa can feeI  hectic amidst the hustle & bustle of goings on. I dodge dust, scooters, and stray dogs every time I leave the villa.  I wouldn’t have it any other way though & this afternoon I feel blessed, as I amble up the road towards my yoga class. After class I will have a coconut on the beach with friends as we watch the sun go down  leaving a golden halo in its wake. No matter how hectic the dust & the dogs and the traffic can feel there is always a way come back to balance. Denise

Some Balinese People

Some Balinese people that I know.

Wayan : Works in the driveway, drilling holes, stacking bricks. Every day wears the same yellow jumper. Never ever any other top. His only top.

  Calls out a cheerful“Hiiiiiiii!” whenever we walk past, even if he is across the rice field.

Yanti : Works in the laundry. Washing, drying, ironing my clothes.

  Always greets me with a beautiful smile. Never frowns.

Made : Has a transport business. Mistakenly received a large amount of money into his account (several months pay worth). He didn’t know who it was from or what it was for. Two weeks later when alerted, sent it all back within an hour of the request.

  Calls me his “Very best friend”.

Risky : Was the manager of a restaurant but lost his job when it closed down. Now drives Gojek. Tells me he can go slow so that I feel safe, or if I’m running late he can drive fast.

“Is it true that NZ is a wonderful place where good education is available to everyone?”

Iluh & Agung : Full time housekeepers. Spend as much time at my house than they do with their own family. Honest & funny, and say they love their job because we are “kind and treat them well”. Often work late even when we say to go home.

“No miss, more to do, we will stay”.

Wayan : Personal driver. Booked up now, but the pandemic was difficult. He didn’t always know if there would be enough money to pay the electricity, feed his wife and two children or even continue living in Canggu.

“It was hard but life is good now”.

Putu : Gardener. Does much more than gardening with expectation of nothing in return. Constructed the towel racks by the pool, cleaned the glass ceiling that was out of reach, lugs bottles of water and massage tables up the stairs so that the maids don’t have to.

“It is fine, I can do it no problem!”.

Ati : Has a massage business. Sends her therapists to the villa often with bags filled with gifts of mangos, mangosteen, passion fruit and papaya. When I pop into her clinic to say hi, she tells me to get on the table for a quick 30 minute massage during her break. Refuses payment.

“A gift for you Denise, thank you for the work”.

A beautiful culture, with fabulous people. It’s easy to love Bali. Denise